![]() I want all the mains but settle for the hake, which is great, but the most memorable elements are the glossy rainbow chard leaves on the top and a tangy clam broth with a fermented black garlic sauce that ties the whole thing together in a way that could only come from repeated iterations of this dish until it was nailed.Īnother option is the Iberico pork presa, a shoulder muscle that Anita explains by pointing to her own shoulder. With each plate we move away from the tapas mouthful to be eaten on the hoof end of things towards a restaurant knife and fork experience. Venison carpaccio on the next plate, a bigger one from the “starter” list, has a serving of surprisingly mild meat, with pickled walnuts and curls of radicchio spines – the perfect bitter fresh crunch to the sweet petals of meat. The only other decoration are some wine shelves, a wine map of Spain and Portugal and a cocktail menu blackboard. The fit-out is simple white walls and an exposed ancient brown brick one where the bricks are held in squares of timber, a wood and masonry detail in a terrace that supposedly includes Dublin’s oldest house, dating from the 1600s. The first great news is that Uno Mas is bigger than Etto. If one of the many ginormous cranes outside fell on the building tonight, a sizeable chunk of the Irish food fraternity would be toast: John and Sandy Wyer of Forest Avenue are celebrating their daughter’s birthday on one side Anita Thoma is talking wedding plans with her fiance on the other young skinny chefs gather around John Wyer in an animated cluster. An autumn opening trickled into a December one. I’ve been risking life and limb on the bike peering into the old Fogo’s (no, me neither) on a grungy corner of Aungier Street for weeks now. In Uno Mas they’re rejoined by chef and business partner Paul McNamara, who has been cooking up a storm in nearby Locks for the past year. ![]() It’s from the couple who brought you Etto, a place where critics regularly part with their own cash to set the needle to true north again. We all knew Uno Mas was going to be good. Whatever vibes are at work, there is a rightness that I rarely find in any restaurant, never mind one with just three nights’ service under its smart new belt. She is an international food and wine judge, the winner of the Food Writing Award at the inaugural Irish Food Writing Awards in 2021, and the Restaurant Writing Award in 2022.So your newly opened restaurant is hosting two food critics and a gaggle of chefs but you manage to look as happy as a clam? Maybe Simon Barrett and Liz Matthews just do good game face, smiles that widen when the pressure gauge goes into the red. While Ireland is not widely known for its viticulture, the wine bar scene continues to grow, with enough cellars stocked with biodynamic and low-intervention bottlings to rival New York, Copenhagen, or Paris that’s where you’ll find some of the most creative food in the city, too.Ĭorinna Hardgrave is a restaurant critic and food writer for the Irish Times. Central to their cooking is quality local produce, like native oysters, lobsters, and fish plucked from the Atlantic and the Irish Sea, and grass-raised beef and lamb from the wild hills of the countryside. Young chefs, many of whom have worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in London and other European food capitals, bring a vibrancy to the city by taking more casual approaches to their menus. It’s also a great base for a tour of the Irish seaside, with villages like Howth, Blackrock, and Dún Laoghaire well worth a 30-minute train ride.įamous for its pubs, Dublin now punches well above its weight when it comes to restaurants, and not just with fine dining. It’s incredibly walkable, especially if you want to pop from pub to pub following in the footsteps of James Joyce, Brendan Behan, and Oscar Wilde on a guided literary pub crawl. Dublin is a village as much as a city, with the feel of a tight-knit community spread along the River Liffey.
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